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lDress. Chart. No. 242,542,

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\ Dress-Chart. 0,242,542. Patent-ed June-7,1881.,

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lUNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ELLEJT li. lilNlClllt, OF (JOltVAlil/lS, OREGON.

DRESS-CHART.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 242,542, dated June 7, 1881.

Application tiled April i, 188|,

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, ELLEN K. KINKER, of Corvallis, in the county of l-ienton and State of Oregon, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Dress-Charts; and 'Iv do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description ot' the invention, which will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, rel'er ence being had to thc accompanying drawings, which form a part of this slieciiication, and in which` Figure 1 is a plan ofthe chart which desig nates the dress back with sleeve attached. Fig. 2 is a plan ci' the chart which designates the dress front. Fig. 3 is a plan ol' the straightedge chart, and Fig. et is a plan oiA the chart which designates the dressskirt.

My invention has relation to charts i'or cntting ont dress-patterns, which charts are provided with certain scales and other marks to regulate the size and proportion of the dresses to be cut from them; and it consists in an improved construction and marking of charts oi' that class, having for its object to facilitate their use, as hereinafter more fully set fort-h.

My improved system, as applied to dress charts, consists of four separate charts, designated, respectively, as Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4 on the annexed two sheets of drawings. I shall describe the arrangement and use of these charts in the order named, commencing with a description of chart No. 1, a plan of which is represented in Fig. 1.

The first part of this chart consists of a large square with rounded or oval corners, and is marked with three distinct rows of Iigures, designated, respectively, as scales No. 1, No. 2, and No. 3. Scales Nos. 1 and 3 give the size of armhole and width across the shoulder. From scale No. 2 the length of the waist under the arm is marked. To one side ofthe square portion ot' the chart is appended the so-called back-waist scale,77 whose numbers mark the size of the back-waist and the waist-line.

The second part or section of chart No. 1 is designated a back-shoulder rule,7 and is marked with the back-shoulder scale and instructions how to place the rule to draw shout der-lines for diierent-sized persons. it is also provided with an inch-rule along the edge, from which to obtain length of shoulder. The

(No model.)

rule i'or obtaining` the shape of side seam is designated by the edge of thechart extending from the corner at back-shoulder scale to the mark indicated in scale No. l. rlhe part oi' the oval corner included between the letters a. and 11,1 designate the arm-rule, and it is nscd in obtaining the shape o1" the back part oil the aimhole.

The third part o1' chart No. 1 is designated as the sleeve-rule, and is marked with thc arm-size line, elbow-line, and wrist-line. The arm-size line has appended to it two scales ot' iignrcs, designated, respectively, as A and B. The scale marked A is t'or the anderhalf', and the scale marked l5 for the upper halt', ot the armhole oi sleeve. The A and B scales,taken in connect-ion with the arinsize slant, give cx,- act sizeof armhole in sleeve. rlhe elbow-line consists of' two scales of (.ignres, designated b v the letters A and ll. r[be scale marked A is for the under half', and the scale marked l' for the upper halt', ofthe elbow of sleeve. The A and 15' scales, taken in connection with the .elbow-slant, give exact size of the sleeve at elbow. The waist-line consists, in like manner, ot' two scales oi' figures, designated, respectively, by the letters A" and B". The scale marked A is for the under half, and the scale marked B" for the upper halt', ofthe sleeve at wrist. rllhe A and B scales, taken in connection with the wrist-slant, give exact size of the sleeve at wrist. After obtaining in this manner the exact size of the sleeve at the armhole, elbow, and wrist, the outline of the sleeve is marked with the side-seam ruler by placing the edges in contact with the dotted marks and tracing the line thus marked with a pencil.

Having described chart No. 1, I shall now proceed to describe in like manner the construction and arrangement of chart No. 2, a plan of which is represented in Fig. 2 of the drawings. This chart contains seven scales, designated, respectively, by the numbers 1,2, 3, 4,5, 6, and 7. It also has a front-waistscale with dart-scale, and a front-shoulder rule. Scales Nos. 1, 2, and 5 mark the size of armhole. No. 1 marks width between shoulders in front. No. 2 marks width of chest, and No.

and small dart-scale combined gire width ot' dart. Thei'ront side-seam rule and front-shoulder rule are the saine as the corresponding rules in chart No. 1. The hip and dart rule is used in getting the shape of the upper part ot' the dart, and also size ot' the cross-dart over hip. The neck-rule is used for getting shape ot' neck. The armhole-rule is used Yfor getting shape of armhole, which is obtained by placing the longer part ot' the rule to the dot-s formed from scales Nos. l and 2, and then placing theshorter part to the dots made from scales Nos. 2 and 5.

Chart No. 3 contains neck-scales 'cr bot-h back and front, also oVerskirt-rule. The object of this chart is to obtain all the straight lines used in cutting. The back-neck scale is used in getting the size ot neck across the back. The front-neck scale, extending from Figs. l to 4, is used to get the height of the neck in front, and this scale is also rused or getting the size of the neckin front. In the overskirt-rule scale No. l is used for obtaining the size of the overskirt in front, and sealeNo. 2 is used for locating dart. The size of dart is obtained from chart No. it. This last chart in the series (shown in Fig. 4I and designated as Na 4) contains dart-seule for dress and orerskirt. The dress-skirt rule contains four scales of ligures, designated, respectively, by the letters A, B, G, and D. The scale marked A is tc obtain the size ot' front `Width ot' skirt, and the curve at top is given by the dot at front edge of' scale. Scale D marks the slant of front width and also size at bottom. The scale marked B gets size of waist plus the darts. The Waist oi' skirt is fitted by the dart-scale at the end of chart. The first dart is taken oil of the front edge of seccndwidth ot' skirt, and the second dartis taken back ot' the dot made from the C-scale. The size of the dart is obtained by letting the frontedge of thech art coincide with Waist-line, and dotting size of dart from the number indicating the size of the Waist. The width ofthe skirt is obtained by givingit a spring of three in eleven inches below Waist-line, and then extending the line in the same proportion to the bottoni ot' the skirt.

Having described the construction and arrangement of the four charts involved in my system, I shall now proceed to describehow to take the measure, in doing which the following rules should be borne in mind: First, a tight measure above the prominentpnrtot the bust over the shoulder-blades; secondly, a tight measure over the prominent part ol" thel bust; thirdly, the size ot' waist; tourthly, the length ot' back i'rom thc prominent boneol.' the neek to the bottom ot' the waist; tithly, the length under the arm from where. the arm joins the shoulder to the bottom ofthe waist;

sixthly, the length ot' front from the highest point ot' shoulder to the bottom o' waist.; seventhly, the length ot' shoulder from neck to shoulder-joint; eighthly, the length of' sleeve from shoulder to elbow, and then from shoulder to wrist; and, lastly, the measureof skirt from the waist-line to floor, infront, side, and back.

B y the use of my improved charts and system a perfect lit may be obtained in the shoulders withoutthe cut-and-try rule. This is donoI by getting the iirst length ot' waist from the arm-size. From this the waist-line is drawn, and from the waist-line thelength ci' theback is obtained. This secures a perfect fit for the shoulders irrespective ot` shape. In other systems, and charts used with them, the da-rtis 0btained by calculation, while by my system and charts it is already made out and marked on the proper chart. Another advantage is the superiority ot' my system and charts in obtaining a correct tit in the skirt, which is done by the aid of chart No.4n the manner described.

Having thus fully described my invention, l claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United StatesrIhe series of patterncharts numbered, respectively, 1, 2, 3, and 4, constructed and arranged as described, for fitting, measuring, and cutting out dress-patterns,substantiall y as set forth.

In testimony that I claim the foregoi ng as my own I have hereto aixed mysi gnature in presence ot' two witnesses.

. ELLEN K. KINKER.

Witnesses:

ALBERT PYGALL, CHARLES E. MILLER.

Itis herebyleertied that in Letters Patent No. 242,542, issued June 1881, for an improvement in Dress Charts, the naine of' the grantee, wherever it. appears in said Letters Patent and in the printed specification forming a [mrt thereof, was em neonsly written and printed Ellen K. Kinker, instead of Ellen K. Rinkerf that the crreet name is Ellen K. Itiuker, and thnt the prnper corrections have been made in the papers and-reeords pertaining to the ease in the Patent Office, and nre hereby mzulv insaid Lettem Patent.

Signed, eonutersigned, and sealed this 11th (my of Comin-.1', A. i). 1851.

' A. BELL,4

[SEAL] Acting Seel-awry of the Interior.

Uountersigned:

E. M. MARBLE,

Commissioner of Patents. 

